07/2004: Replaced the existing shore power inlet (15 amp variety with a junction box) with a 30 amp Marinco. Routed from the new inlet to a new 110 volt panel that I mounted in the port cabinet above the berth. Panel is a Blue Seas - AC Breaker Panel Main + 6" (30 Amp main , and 3 15 amp breakers). I then wired the existing house AC into the Panel



07/2004: Added a Xantrex - Trucharge 10Tb 10 A 2 Bank charger mounted to the DC panel in the head. Routed from a breaker on the AC panel, and then to the batteries.



07/2004: Added an Auxiliary Panel to a box I made located on the top shelf of the bookcase across from the Galley. Purpose was to be the power source for the Stereo I would later install. This is a fuse type panel with a meter and lighter socket

08/2004: Couldn't have a boat without music, just didn't seem right. Purchased a good Sony CD car receiver from Circuit City that had an auxiliary input jack. I needed the jack so I could plug in my MP3 player. I mounted this into a marine stereo enclosure from West Marine, and mounted it under the Microwave shelf in the Galley. I can see the radio from the steering station and the forward berth. Since the radio came with a wireless remote, I can control the volume and other features from most places on the boat.

Speaker: Purchase 2 6x9" waterproof speakers from West Marine and mounted them under the cockpit benches after making the appropriate cutouts.

Trust me... it sounds good




08/2004: Raz sorely needed a forward bilge pump. I bought an automatic float variety (RULE) 750 GPH , and mounted it in the forward bilge access. I used some Starboard to create a cradle for the pump, allowing me to install it deep into the bilge. The pump was wired to a 3 way bilge pump switch (Auto-off-on) I installed at the steering station. Outlet for the pump was located in the locker next to the head and was an appropriate thru-hull.


09/2004: (!@$#^%*&(*^%) : Starter would not turn over, click, click,click...... grumble. Tested all the wiring , source and ground OK. Noticed that there was a large voltage drop when the starter was activated - not good. Pulled the starter and had it brought to a automotive electric shop. News gets better, left turning starter, bad armature , not available locally . Part ordered from Germany (Bosh) , and starter rebuilt ($400.00).

Gets better... Install starter , pinion gear misses the teeth in the flywheel, resulting in a not so nice sound, and no movement of the flywheel. After numerous attempts to get it to engage, readjust etc, realize its not going to work. Back to the automotive shop, where the put the old pinion gear back on. Now it works.

10/2004: I got tired of the blue carpet and plywood floor boards in the cockpit. Not that there was anything wrong with them, I just wanted a different look and feel. After a trip to Home Depot , and looking at Fiberon, the idea struck me to make them look true boards. The other alternative was to use Starboard (available from West Marine), however, that stuff is just too expensive, and I wasn't fond of the look, basically a solid white board

Benefits of using Fiberon Decking: Appearance (I like the look), Strength, Easy to shape, Price (compared to Starboard or Teak), Longevity, the stuff is impervious to rot

Down Side: Boards are much heavier than original and harder to manipulate. But they give a sense of strength,
Click on images for an expanded view
Main cockpit and fuel tank floor board
-Added stainless piano hinge for easier access
to the bilge
Main cockpit floor board (underside)
-Ripped Fiberon to a 1 3/4 width and used as stringers underneath to keep boards together and increase support. Stringers fastened with 1/4" stainless carriage bolts
Used 1 1/2" x 1/8" aluminum flat pieces (Home Depot) with 3/4" stainless screws to hold side pieces in place.
Floor board at skipper's station
-Used 1 1/2" aluminum flats with 3/4" stainless screws as stringers.
Floor board over fuel tank, one of two ,(underside)
-Used 1 1/2" aluminum flats with 3/4" stainless screws as stringers.



10/2004: Added an aft bilge pump, mounted on the 2x4" stringer. Purpose is to assist in draining the deeper part of the bilge. I found a source for a fairly cheap stainless puppy style pump (240 GPH) at Harbor Freight for $35.00. Probably not the highest quality but will suffice for the purpose. 1/2" inlet and outlet, with the outlet dropped in the bilge. Pump activated from the original bilge pump switch at the steering station